Lejog: Edinburgh – Penzance

Edinburgh – Penzance

~ 600 miles

13.5 hours

My plan was to take my bike down to Penzance on the train, thinking that would be the most relaxing way to travel; I was wrong. It all started at 5PM yesterday when the Trainline emailed me to say that my very rare direct Cross Country train from Edinburgh to Penzance with associated bike reservation had been cancelled. The rail network help desk clarified that the 9:08 am train was actually running, but instead of arriving in Penzance at 20:53, it would only be going as far as Bristol Parkway due to ongoing rail works. I could get as far as Bristol, but after that I would have to hope for the best, no cycle reservation spaces were available and only one unreserved bike was allowed per train.

I considered cancelling the booking, and looked longingly at the heavily populated timetables of the East and West coast lines, ruing my decision to opt for the Cross Country route, one that was infrequent, slow and now partially cancelled. But, as is usually the case in situations like this, I decided to embrace the uncertainty and see what happened!

The tone for the day was set when I arrived at Waverley and tried to deposit my bike at the guard van. There was already one bike onboard and another 4 waiting to get on, 3 bike spaces did not seem enough, but at least I had a reservation for this section…

The first few hours passed pleasantly enough, then as we passed through Newcastle and Durham the train filled up and it was a strange sensation to be crammed in with an ever changing cast of maskless strangers. Plenty departed in York but the train soon filled again on the approach to Birmingham, so I was relieved when an emptier train made the final few stops to Bristol Parkway. The fewer people around to board the 17:25 train to Plymouth, the less chance of competition for that one unreserved bike space.

When the 17:25 train arrived, things appeared to be looking up when I found a carriage with three empty bike spaces and jumped on board. Relieved that the train was quieter than I’d imagined, my thoughts now turned to my connection from Plymouth to Penzance on what would be a different network entirely. I would be getting a Great Western Railways train, but I didn’t know at what time, and their website stated that bike reservations were essential.

Leaving Bristol Parkway, the conductor was initially optimistic that our train could arrive in Plymouth before the London – Penzance connection, but that optimism soon faded as we were delayed over and over again. If we missed the connection, I was concerned it’d be too late to check into my accommodation, the last check in time was 10 o’clock, 20 past 11 might be stretching it a bit.

Then, the conductor came excitedly through the carriage again, the Penzance train had been delayed and was now directly behind us, if we jumped out at Tiverton Parkway station, the other train would stop right after us and pick us up. There was no guarantee I’d get my bike on the train and the station was little more than a halt, but it was a risk I was willing to take. This time the bike compartment was carriage C and again I was relieved to find a space. I quickly messaged the network’s Twitter account and requested a cycle reservation for the rest of journey, I’d come so far, I didn’t want to fall at the final hurdle. Then I contacted my hotel to tell them I’d only be a little bit late…

Eventually, the train pulled into the station at half past 10, 13 and a half hours after I’d left Edinburgh, it wasn’t far around the harbour to my hotel, so thankfully I just made last orders. Train travel with a bike is stressful, think I’ll stick to a plane next time!

LEJOG Kit List

My kit for this adventure is a fairly traditional cycle-touring set up as detailed below.

The Bike:

Thorn Brevet

⁃ Reynolds 531 steel frame.

⁃ 700C wheels (Mavic Open Pro rims, Shimano Deore hubs, 32 spokes)

⁃ Chainrings: 48/36/26

⁃ Cassette: 32t (8 speed)

⁃ Downtube shifters

⁃ Brooks B17 saddle

⁃ Continental Grand Prix 4 Season tyres (700C x 28mm)

⁃ Topeak Super Tourist DX bike rack

⁃ SKS Chromoplastic mudguards

⁃ Dawes Panniers

⁃ Terra Nova handlebar bag

⁃ Garmin Etrex 20x

Cycling Kit:

⁃ Icebreaker merino baselayer

⁃ Pearl Izumi lightweight cycle jersey

⁃ Padded undershorts

⁃ Rapha Randonee shorts

⁃ Gore Windstopper short sleeve top

⁃ Btwin cycling shoes with Look Keo cleats

⁃ Sunglasses

⁃ Padded gloves

⁃ Helmet

Pannier 1:

⁃ Vaude Terralight tent

⁃ Vango ultralight 200 sleeping bag

⁃ Thermarest ProLight inflatable mat

⁃ Silk sleeping bag liner

⁃ Inflatable pillow

⁃ Alpkit titanium stove and 1l aluminium pan.

– Anker solar panel

Pannier 2:

⁃ Waterproof trousers and jacket

⁃ Waterproof socks

⁃ Down vest

⁃ Spare boxers and merino cycling socks

⁃ Spare change of off bike clothes (softshell trousers, running top, light fleece, trainers)

⁃ Bike spares and tools (2 x inner tubes, puncture repair kit, multitool (Allen keys, chain tool) chain links, spare screws, 2 spare gear cables, brake pads), pump.

⁃ Bike lights

⁃ Headtorch

⁃ Spare rechargeable batteries, AA, AAA, li-ion camera batteries.

⁃ 2 power banks (1 x Anker 15,000 mah), cables, usb power supply.

⁃ Very small first aid kit!

Handlebar bag:

⁃ Camera

UK 2021: Land’s End to John o’ Groats

So, what does your average globetrotting cycle-tourist do during a world pandemic I hear you ask? Unsurprisingly, look for the nearest suitable challenge not necessitating the use of an Aeroplane and get packing is the answer.

And here I am, packed. Packed off on the 9:08 train from Edinburgh Waverley and with over 12 hours to kill before I arrive in Penzance. My challenge is – of course – Land’s End to John o’ Groats. 1000 miles, from the south-western tip of the British mainland to the north-eastern one.

The route I am intending to follow is the one presented in the Cicerone LeJoG guidebook, and is described as the ‘optimal’ route by none other than the author himself. Optimal because it keeps to quiet roads without adding greatly to the overall mileage.

To this stage, my planning has been minimal. I booked a train – and accommodation for my first night in Penzance – and that’s about it! Hotels in England look expensive, so I’ve brought my tent and hope to camp most nights, but not having planned where I hope to reach each night, I’ll need to seek out my accommodation options as I go. Hopefully this isn’t complicated too much by the English school holidays or lingering Covid restrictions…

Epilogue

I arrived in Ho Chi Minh City on Monday afternoon, and didn’t fly out again until Thursday, it seemed like an extravagant amount of time in which to get ready. But, getting a bike box was a priority, and with the ongoing Tet celebrations, the predominance of closed shops was a concern. I considered cycling around the city checking out the various bike shops, but I decided I was ‘aff’ bikes for the time being. Besides, after 3 weeks cycling, it was now a struggle to walk up stairs, I should probably go on foot. After checking for bike shops on Google Maps, the first I tried was 2 km to the north, no luck, I couldn’t locate the shop, if the map was right, it was closed.

Then I spotted two close together 2 km to the south of the hotel, so back I went. The first one was closed, but the second, Saigon Bikes was open. Not only that, but the owner addressed me in English and I could see some bike boxes hiding behind a well-stocked cabinet of shimano bike parts. With a huge sense of relief, I tucked the folded up box under my arm and wandered back to the hotel.

I packed up the bike, outside the hotel, on the Wednesday morning, and was baffled by a lady who grabbed the box, chucked my empty water bottles in it and started to walk off with it. ‘Hey I need that!’

In the afternoon, I made a belated attempt at conventional tourism by heading to the ‘War Remnants Museum’ an utterly harrowing experience in which the Vietnamese have showcased the horrors to which they were subjected by the American military. The accounts of entire villages being completely ransacked were appalling, with the elderly, women, children and animals all slaughtered, buildings – such as they were – torched, and chemicals poured over the landscape to destroy crops and vegetation.

One thing that stood out above all else were the words of North Vietnamese President, Ho Chi Minh, whose name adorned the road I had been travelling for the past 3 weeks.

I was glad I went to the Museum, but also glad I went at the end of the trip. For a country which has undergone such trauma in the not too distant past, the scars seem to have healed remarkably well, and the country I travelled through is a testament to the unbreakable nature of the Vietnamese people. The welcome I received, up and down the country, was wonderful.

On my last evening in Vietnam, I decided to have a special meal to commemorate my successful adventure. Opting for the local delicacy of Australian Black Angus Fillet Steak, maybe there is a limit to the number of bowls of Pho I can endure in one month…

All was set, all I needed to do now was make it to the airport for my 13:55 flight to Hanoi. From there I would fly out to Doha at 18:20 and onwards to Edinburgh. ‘Sorry sir, your flight has been delayed to 6:20 PM’ were the unwelcome words from the Jetstar Pacific check-in desk. When I protested that I had another onward flight from Hanoi at exactly that time, I was told to go to their information desk, and from then on it was all systems go. I had to retrieve my bike from baggage control, before returning it to them again – as it was also outsized baggage. By that time, the staff had transferred me onto an earlier, Vietnam Airlines, flight, and running to the gate, I made final boarding.

Back in Hanoi there was a brief interlude between flights while I talked to a Frenchman, Auguste, as I waited for the interterminal bus. He was backpacking around the world and had been to Capo Verde, Martinique, Brazil, New Zealand, Australia and South Korea amongst other places and was heading on to New Delhi, India. He’d been travelling for 13 months already.

My second check-in process ground to a halt as the girl at the desk checked the Baggage Allowance information for British Airways, whom I’d booked my Qatar Airways flight through. The BA allowance was 23 kg, the bike box was 25 kg, if it was a BA flight I knew they’d let me through. As it was, I was sure I’d read that the baggage allowance for the flight should be the Qatar Airways allowance of 30 kg – as they were operating the flight. Having been moved out of the queue, I wasn’t flying anywhere until I found the link on the BA app that stated that for Qatar Airways flights, their conditions applied, my bike was under the limit.

On the flight to Doha I chatted to the passenger next to me, a London-based Luxembourger named Adrien, who was delighting in the freedom afforded to him by solo travel. During his 2 and a half week trip to Vietnam, he’d received an invite to celebrate the Lunar New Year with a friend in Taiwan, and had absolutely loved it, ending up there for a week. I considered how much freedom I’d had on my trip, as I slavishly ticked off places I’d preordained whilst still at home. But, pushing hard to achieve my targets early on had allowed me the opportunity to take things easier during the middle of the journey, enjoying spending time with some of the people I’d met along the away, and ultimately, it was the people that made a trip like this worth doing. The stunning landscapes and fascinating culture were just a bonus.