Day 19: Harris Beach – Klamath

Distance: 58.98 miles.
Time: 5:49.
Average Speed: 10.1 mph.

This morning started early, when the Park Ranger came to evict me from my tent. I’d filled in the campsite self-registration form with Hiker / Biker instead of the number of the pitch – as I’d been instructed to do at another campsite – so the Ranger didn’t think I’d paid. Luckily, Leah who had the pitch next to mine was up and able to fight my corner, I had paid the princely $5 fee.

Leah was heading into Brookings for breakfast so we pedalled in together, the coast shrouded in pre-Californian fog. There we met another cycle tourer, Kyle from Victoria, Vancouver Island. Kyle had arrived late at the campsite the previous night, as he’s pushing 80 mile days from Victoria to San Francisco. The three of us had a leisurely breakfast, basking in the early morning sun.

Kyle was pressing on, so he got back on the road, but Leah and I each only had vague aims for the day, so we cycled, more or less, together for the rest of the day. She’s a video editor, originally from Toronto, but living in Los Angeles, who hopes to spend a few days in the Redwoods National Park before heading on to San Francisco to start a charity ride to the Mexican border at the beginning of June.

The major notable feature of the day’s ride came shortly out of Brookings, when we encountered the State Border of California, it felt like a huge landmark and almost unthinkable a few weeks ago. My total mileage to the Californian border is 911 miles.

 

Shortly after the Border, we left Route 101 and followed Oceanview Drive over pleasant rolling hills and farmland for an enjoyable 20 miles. The agricultural land was particularly striking as it had been absent for much of the journey so far.

Heading into Crescent City, we met the couple from Rhode Island again, and rode along stunning Pebble Beach Drive, before they headed off to find accommodation for the night.

 

We lunched at a Hawaiian BBQ where I discovered that 12 ounces of Orange and Pineapple Chicken is definitely enough food for a hungry cycle tourist.

Out of Crescent City came the biggest climb of the coast so far, up and over 400m, but we had entered Redwoods National Park and I thoroughly enjoyed the peace and solitude of riding with these sleeping giants all around.

Having descended to Klamath, after almost 60 miles, and with another big climb to come next on the route, it seemed as good a place to stop as any, and we were recommended a nice campsite beside the Klamath River.

 

Tomorrow, I’m looking forward to continuing through the Redwoods National Park!

Day 18: Denmark – Harris Beach State Park

Distance: 66.11 miles.
Time: 6:12.
Average Speed: 10.7 mph.

At points, today was surreal, as I was blown past an outstanding coastal spectacle, matched only by the weather. It really
was a very good day for bicycle touring.

I’d hoped my early finish yesterday would give me added impetus for the day ahead, and so it seemed. I awoke early and set to work on the bike, making sure the tyres were extra hard, and reclaiming the 8 gears that had been lost in yesterday’s maintenance effort. I set off at half 9 and briskly pedalled the 10 miles into Port Orford for breakfast: the largest pile of French Toast ever to be seen. With added blueberries.

Back on the road, the riding was astonishing with stunning new views around every turn, the sea littered with stacks and boulders as far as the eye could see. The sun was beating down and the wind was at my back, it was glorious.

I quickly passed Humbug Mountain and, for a time, enjoyed a route on the Old Coast Highway, cattle grids and all. I arrived in Gold Beach at around 3 o’clock, electing to have some lunch, a very tasty Calzone from an otherwise empty bar.

Next came Cape Sebastian, a 240m climb which seemed easy with the wind blowing me up the hill. The road stayed high for a while and further climbs arrived, I passed a cyclist in despair heading the other way, uphill into the wind. I knew the feeling.

Shortly after, I crossed the fearsomely high Thomas Creek bridge, 345 feet above the water, I couldn’t help but look down. As 60 miles came and went, and the tailwind dropped I started to struggle, but eventually I reached the Brookings sign, and finally the Harris Beach campsite.

Struggling to find a spot in the campsite – the hiker/biker section was closed – I happened upon quite a little enclave of other cyclists, including Duncan from Australia and Paul from New Zealand, a couple from Rhode Island, and a little later, Leah, who I’d also passed earlier on the road. Apart from Duncan, we were all heading south, so it was great to share our rain-related tales of woe.

It seemed a fitting end to my journey through Oregon, as I am now just 8 miles from the Californian border, and should hopefully pass into the final State of the route tomorrow.

Day 17: Sunset Bay – Denmark (KOA)

Distance: 45.88 miles.
Time: 4:14.
Average Speed: 10.8 mph.

Typically on this trip, I’ve liked to follow a big day, with a small day, and today was a small day.

I woke at 9, the 75 miles yesterday having taken it out of me, but I was feeling more confident in my ability to cover the miles as and when required. I wasn’t as convinced in my bike’s ability to reinvigorate itself, however. In the long hours of yesterday evening, my gears had become a grinding, stuttering mess, and there was a sporadic unidentified squeak that was hugely worrying.

So this morning, I was planning the long overdue overhaul of my bike’s drivetrain, and with a miniature can of WD40 and half a roll of toilet roll, I was ready to begin. The end result was a vast improvement, and at least I had some gears that seemed to be running smoothly. Then, when going on a test ride around the campsite, I was horrified to find that the back brake wasn’t working at all, but a few tugs at the cable and it started to work a little, at least.

I set off around half 12, and took in views of Cape Arago lighthouse before making my way into Charleston for lunch. Stopping at the ‘High Tide’ cafe, I enjoyed a burger before ensuring to follow it with a wonderfully sweet slab of caramel cake, as I’m watching my calories. Whilst there, a nice family from Idaho were supportive of my trip, and recommended some of the great spots in California for the weeks ahead.

It was 3 o’clock, and I’d cycled under 5 miles. Not a strong start to the day, but ensuring the bike keeps on rolling is kind of important too, I guess.

I headed out of Charleston on Seven Devils Road, it was fantastic cycling with steep hills and swooping bends, the miles flew by, it was a real treat after weeks of pounding along Highways.

I was back on the highway soon enough, but not for long as I followed the guidebook’s advice to take to the coast round Bandon, and I’m certainly glad I did. The bay around Bandon was littered with stacks, it was an awesome sight.

I had taken aim on a KOA campsite in Denmark (Oregon) for the night and that left 13 miles to go. It was pleasant cycling, inland, through pastures and wooded hillside. I arrived at the campsite at 7 and set up camp. I was short on miles for the day, but a good night’s sleep, and there will be a bigger day along tomorrow, no doubt.

Day 16: Carl G. Washburne Memorial – Sunset Bay State Park

Distance: 74.41 miles.
Time: 6:41.
Average Speed: 11.1 mph.

Waking after a good sleep, at the pleasant Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park, I set off at a slightly more reasonable half past 10. Conditions were cold and damp as I climbed a gentle gradient away from the campsite. A few miles later, having passed through a short tunnel, I stopped to photograph the Heceta Head Lighthouse, carefully trying to capture the moment the light pointed in my direction, and failing miserably. At this point, another cyclist turned up, Leah, she was surprised to find I hadn’t been snapping the three eagles soaring around above the cliffs, the birds ruining my pictures. She had set off from Vancouver a few days after me, but taken the more direct route out of Canada, having ridden across the whole country last year. She plans on riding 65 miles a day, then having occasional rest days, so our paths may cross again down the road.

12 miles in, I arrived in Florence, and made for Subway, where ordering was challenging. In the end I did my best cod-American accent and managed to get some tomato on my sandwich. At around 17 miles, I passed Honeyman State Park where I should have reached last night, it already seemed like a long way today. Another five miles down the road I reached the Oregon Dunes Overlook which offered spectacular views over the several hundred foot high dunes.

25 miles in, I was struggling with the heat and felt low in energy as I battled up a hill, far smaller than those 2 days ago. I stopped and had my remaining food, a few small rolls, and decided I should maybe stop for dinner soon. I descended from the hill, then passed through Gardiner, before stopping at a bakery in Reedsport. Asking for soup and a sandwich, I opted for roast beef. The lady asked what I wanted on it, before interrupting herself to tell me she’d make me a ‘good’ sandwich. To be fair, she did.

It was now half 4 and I’d covered 35 miles so thoughts turned towards camp for the night. There was a state park at 46 miles and a KOA campsite at 54 miles, though I’d originally hoped to reach Sunset Bay before I’d dropped the miles yesterday. That would be over 70 miles for the day which seemed out of the question, especially when I struggled with a small climb out of Reedsport, and then, ascending from Winchester Bay, I had to stop. I was still too hot and felt terribly weak. When I thought about the energy I had a few weeks ago compared to now, I could only think I needed more calories per day. I’d bought a couple of donuts at the bakery, so I ate them both.

It was a glorious evening and only 6 o’clock when I past the state park, so I carried on. Then when I reached the KOA campsite I was tempted to stop, it was 20 to 7, I could use their laundrette service. But I was feeling much better in the cooler evening air, it was 20 miles, but my GPS was predicting I would get to Sunset Bay by half 8, that would make up for the lost miles yesterday.

I was determined to make up the lost miles, I flew along to North Bend and soared over the Coos Bay bridge, then gradually I saw the time of arrival fall away, until I reached Sunset Bay campsite at quarter past 8, just as the sun set.