Day 11: Bay Center – Astoria (OR)

Distance: 37.40 miles.
Time: 3:40.
Average Speed: 10.2 mph.

Rain was forecast for the day, so I planned to eschew unnecessary scenic diversions and make straight for Astoria, in my next county, Oregon. Before I left the campsite, I was warned not to try and cycle across the Astoria bridge – by a couple whose daughter and son-in-law had cycled the coast themselves – recommending putting the bike in the back of a truck. As I pedalled away, the man kindly offered me a lift to Astoria as they were heading that direction, I politely declined. 5 minutes later, as they passed me battling with my waterproofs during the first of many heavy showers, they repeated the offer. It was tempting.

The rain soon cleared, but a dark sky loomed ominously all day, waiting to strike. By 12 miles I was drenched. At 20 miles, it was dry again when I stopped at a drive-thru coffee kiosk, but the rain had started again by the time I received my order and it wouldn’t stop again for the rest of the day.

I could barely see the Columbia river when I reached it, and the other end of the Astoria-Megler bridge disappeared into the mist. Setting off across the bridge, I heeded the advice of the guide book, not to stop until the other side. Easier said than done when it’s 4 miles long, into a fierce headwind, with a foot and a half shoulder and trucks thundering past. I checked into Motel 6 right beside the bridge utterly drenched.

After drying off, I enjoyed dinner in the beautiful environs of the Bridgewater Bistro, serenaded by a virtuosic fingerstyle jazz guitarist.

That’s the British Columbia and Washington State sections of my route concluded, covering 531 miles in 11 days, and now I set off down the Oregon Coast!

Day 10: Twin Harbors State Park – Bay Center (KOA)

Distance: 51.42 miles
Time: 4:57.
Average Speed: 10.4 mph.

I was soaked by the time I got back to the tent last night, so I jumped in and zipped up the door, the rain keeping me there until morning. Finally, at half 8, it let up just long enough for me to make a dash for the showers. By the time I returned it had started again so I had to pack up in the rain. It was almost a relief to escape the sodden quagmire of the campsite and hit the open road.

Within a few miles, the rain had stopped completely, and as I sat savouring the Pacific views, the sun broke through the clouds.

For an hour or two, I was pedalling around Willapa Bay, on deserted roads in the sunshine. But then, 30 miles in, as I approached Raymond, the storm clouds moved in from the south and the rain started lashing down, I made a dash for the Pitchwood Alehouse, it was time for lunch.

After lunch, there were a few miles of bike track around to South Bend, but then, as I was passing through town, the skies seemed to darken up ahead. I was fishing for my waterproofs when a barrage of gigantic hailstones started their attack, causing me to jump for cover. I ploughed on into the rain, this was ridiculous. Then as I rounded the corner of the bay, back to the Pacific, the rain stopped, just as quickly as it began, the sun shining through the trees.

Arriving at the KOA campsite at Bay Center I jumped at the chance of a cabin for the night. I know the rain will be back soon and I don’t fancy being stuck out in it!

Day 9: Potlach State Park – Twin Harbors State Park

Distance: 80.09 miles.
Time: 7:13.
Average Speed 11.1 mph.

I was expecting a big day, so left the campsite at half 8, reaching Shelton, an hour – and 10 miles – later. I stopped at the local Walmart to stock up on provisions and got talking to the teller, who said she was also from Europe:
‘Ooh, I was born in France’. That’s nice, have you been back recently, I asked, innocently. ‘Yes, it was horrible!’ How so, I enquired. ‘You know that Algeria used to be a colony, and now they’ve just let them all in!’ I left before she played the Trump card.

Back on the road, I started to head west towards the Pacific Coast, but as soon as I turned onto highway 108, I ploughed straight into a headwind. My nemesis for the next 65 miles. Not that I thought I’d get that far when the wheel trim came flying off an overtaking van, it missed fortunately.

I continued west along Freeway 12 between McCleary and Elma, where the thundering trucks holding lane position had me scurrying to the far side of the shoulder, weaving in and out of stones and shrapnel, a few wayward stones sent pinging across the carriageway.

Continuing on a back road, through pleasant farmland to Montesaro, I stopped for Clam Chowder and a tasty Chicken Alfredo Sandwich at Gepetto’s.

10 miles later, at 60 miles for the day, I reached Aberdeen, birthplace of Kurt Cobain.

The last stretch was endless. On long straight roads, into the wind, I was counting down the miles. Finally reaching 80 miles for the day, a cycle-touring high mark for me.

I quickly pitched the tent, then rushed off to the beach, having finally reached the Pacific, 9 days in. I was given 10 minutes grace before the rain started, and if the forecast is correct, it might not stop for a while.

Day 8: Old Fort Townsend State Park – Potlach State Park.

Distance: 63.02 miles
Time: 5:40
Average Speed: 11.1 mph

I slept late, and didn’t set off until half 10, but I was feeling fresh and determined to get through the miles. 10 miles, and a significant climb later, I stopped for brunch at ‘Fat Smitty’s’ – a proper American Roadhouse whose reputation allegedly runs far and wide for the size of their ‘Fat Smitty’ burger. I was challenged to try and finish it by the locals. Easy. Though I didn’t need to eat again until dinner time.

After a 12 mile flat stretch north of Quilcene, highway 101 scaled the flanks of Mount Walker, a 3 mile climb, and the climbing didn’t stop: the road went up and down all the way along the side of the Hood Canal, until just north of Hoodsport 40 miles later. It was a perfect day for powering through the miles, however, as the weather was glorious, and the scenery was enjoyable without being outstanding enough to warrant stopping often for photos: there were occasional fleeting glimpses of the Olympic mountains through the trees.

Arriving at Hoodsport at 6pm, after a 60 mile day, I was tired and sore, and highly relieved to get another big day out of the way. I treated myself to a well earned beer in ‘Model T’s bar and grill’ while being treated to an in depth breakdown of the family lineage of the other pub clientele.

Afterwards I rolled the final few miles to Potlach State Park arriving relatively early, at half 7. Another big day planned tomorrow, but if all goes well I should make it to the Pacific Coast at last!