Tag: Atlantic Coast

Norway Day 13: Fjistero Fjordcamping – Hopen Lake

Distance: 54.42 miles

Time: 5:13

Elevation Gain: 3,502 feet

Fjistero Fjordcamping had been an ideal spot to spend the night. The reception building had a seating area that was left open all night, so we plugged in a few electrical devices overnight. It was very satisfying to start the day with a full power bank for once.

I had started to consider the fact, that if I wanted to get to the Lofoten Islands in time to do the final 400 miles (including ferries) to Tromso, I would really only have two more cycling days to finish the stage to Bodø, and there were still 400 km to go. It was time for another short cut. Having discovered that Norled had operated the fast passenger ferry from Bergen to Selje, and also the one from Kristiansund to Trondheim, I wondered if there was something similar servicing the major northern port of Bodø, from where I would be taking the ferry to the Lofoten Islands.

A quick search suggested that a company called Reis Nordland operated a ferry that started in Sandnessjøen, at 6:25, each morning, and 5 hours later arrived into Bodø, and it was 200 km away, perhaps I had a solution, all I had to do was get to Sandnessjøen.

We rolled along the edge of the fjord, before starting to climb gradually inland. The elevation profile showed a climb to start the day so we were happy when we arrived in Kolvereid and the climbing hadn’t been too severe.

After picking up some supplies for the day, at the Remo 1000 supermarket, we set off again, waving to the German woman from the day before as she turned into the supermarket car park, she must’ve been pushing hard with her laden steed.

Turning back onto the main road, we realised that climb one was just beginning as we climbed steeply away from the town.

We rolled past the glistening blue waters of Storvatnet lake on silky smooth tarmac, heat radiating from the surface, whispy white clouds on a bright azure sky.

Soon, we were undulating along the side of Årsetfjordan, the way seldom staying flat for long. Towards the northern end of the fjord the road finally dropped to its banks and it looked like an ideal place to stop for lunch.

Hugo had bought a block of Norwegian Brunost brown cheese to have for lunch, ‘that is no good’, he exlaimed! Well, according to the lady on the train from Oslo to Bergen, you’re meant to have it with strawberry jam and waffles, I pointed out. Apparently, he preferred the Beaufort cheese made in his home region of France.

Beyond the fjord, a small rise revealed a trio of impressive mountains, the tallest, sitting at 1058 m was Heilhornet, and I was busy admiring the view when Hugo pointed out that the road ran along its flank, half way up. I didn’t want to know how we got up there, but I was sure we’d find out…

After a steep climb under a hot sun, we stopped at a gushing waterfall to replenish our water supplies, before plummeting down the other side, then through a pair of tunnels, along to the end of the road at Holm.

After only a few minutes waiting for the ferry to Vennesund, it wasn’t long before we reached the other side, and after that we pedalled another 5 miles, under a clouded sky, to a natural beauty spot, Hopen lake, a part fresh, part salt-water lake, with a beautifully renovated historic pier, and a handy space-age toilet block with a supercharged, but freezing, external shower.

Norway Day 11: Levanger – Hjellbotn Lake

Distance: 48.17 miles

Time: 4:59

Elevation Gain: 2,689 feet

Leaving the girl at reception utterly bewildered when I attempted to pay for the previous night’s camping, I explained that the self check-in machine had malfunctioned, before she took all of my details and tried to point out which pitch I should use on the campsite map.

Rolling down the Kirkegata, or high street, of the pleasant little town of Levanger, it felt like something of a rarity of my time in Norway, in that it was a historic town centre, but built around a road, and not a waterway.

The route carried on along a cycle path beside the E6 highway as it tracked along the fjord, with the railway line in close attendance. But soon, I was perturbed to find my various navigation tools wanting to direct me down onto the E6 itself, presuming that there were no alternatives along this stretch, I followed their guidance.

The first few miles weren’t so bad, a reasonable shoulder to hide on on what was certainly a busy road, but as the road rounded a bend, the shoulder disappeared, so I kept as far right as possible, gluing my front wheel to the white line, thankful for having had a little Velodrome practice in the winter.

Soon there was a tunnel too, and having not particularly enjoyed my short spell on a busier road, I decided to brave the hills, and rejoin the Eurovelo route in Straumen, where I crossed a striking bridge and picked up some supplies.

After a spell back on an E6 cycle path, the road out of Steinkjer was twisting and undulating, a series of steep slopes along the side of Steinkjerfjorden, sapping my energy in the early evening sun.

So when I reached the outskirts of Vellamelen and had had enough for the day, I dragged my bike up a steep embankment to an escarpment above the loch and pitched my tent. Only 48 miles done, must do better.

Norway Day 10: Trondheim (twinned with Dunfermline) – Levanger

Distance: 61.81 miles

Time: 7:12

Elevation Gain: 4297 feet

After checking out of the hotel, I looked up the ferry times for the short hop between Trondheim and the start of the next stage of the trip. The next ferry to Vanvikan was leaving shortly – at half past 12 – and the next one after that wasn’t until 3PM.

Deciding that a little sightseeing around Trondheim was a non-negotiable, I decided on the later boat.

But then I got carried away, and one two many photographs of the historic Viking capital and its grand medieval cathedral later, and I was rushing to make the 3 o’clock ferry, and I missed it.

Not being able to face waiting about for the next one, I quickly searched for a route out of Trondheim, without using the ferry, which would need to stick to the south side of the fjord.

Everything was going well – with the route on a cycle path neighbouring the E6 dual carriageway – when all of a sudden, the route started to turn, and it was clear that while the E6 hugged the fjord on this side of the mountains, the cycle route would be going around the other side, on a 30 mile dogleg.

Initially, the road climbed, and I suffered in the bright sunshine, but eventually the road plateaued and dropped into a wide valley, vividly colourful fields spread out in front of me, and I started to believe this route had been a good idea.

But then, I turned north, climbing for a short distance, before turning again on to a back road, that was barely a dirt track, rising past a farmhouse and into a densely packed forest of firs, the way deteriorating into a rocky and rugged forest trail.

For 12 miles, the road undulated through the forest, my panniers rattling, and my road tyres pinging stones out from under them.

As the light in the sky started to dwindle, I passed a pair of stunning lakes, and I began to fear that I would end the day here, high in the wilderness, but with frazzled nerve and furrowed brow, I finally made it through, and no punctures had shown their hand at this early stage.

Delighted to be on smooth black tarmac once more, even more so as it dropped satisfyingly slowly back towards the level of the fjord, and soon I was rolling into Levanger campsite at just gone midnight. The self-service booking machine didn’t work, but I could deal with payment tomorrow.

Norway Day 9: Kårvåg – Atlanterhavstunnelen Bus – Trondheim

Distance: 14.1 miles

Time: 1:09

Elevation Gain: 928 feet

I needed to make a significant route choice, the time was ticking on my time in Norway, and after 8 days riding, I was still two days away from Trondheim. Then, I’d have a big section between Trondheim and Bodo to do, then finally the sprint along the Lofoten and Vesterålen Islands to Tromso, it seemed like all the waiting around for ferries had knocked me off track. But, there was the option to take the ferry from Kristiansund to Trondheim, 200 hundred kilometers east. If I could get the Atlantic tunnel bus at 12:41, then I’d have a few hours to spare in Kristiansund, before the ferry onwards at 16:15, and I could be in Trondheim in the evening.

I set off up the hill out of Kårvåg, when a couple on heavily loaded tourers rode past me, before my lighter setup saw me move ahead of them again on the next hill. Soon after, there were some roadworks, and we all stopped at the lights for long enough to become acquainted.

This was a French couple who had started their five month trip from home, and would be carrying on to Nordkapp.

Soon we were off again, but after a lumpy 14 mile ride to the bus stop – from which we’d take the Atlantic tunnel bus to Kristiansund – I was able to quiz them again about their trip. Their names were Simon and Margot, and they’d left their hometown near Gap, travelled north to Denmark – to catch the 3 day ferry to Seydisfjordur, Iceland, to complete a lap of the island, before travelling onwards to Norway via a stop off in the Faroe Islands en route. After Nordkapp they would then make their return south via Finland. Sounded like a good trip!

After getting off the bus, we met a couple on a recumbent tandem waiting at the stop, and chatted a little more, before we all said our goodbyes.

Enjoying my short visit to Kristiansund, I found a fantastic Thai restaurant, just along the road from the port, and the colossal Pad Thai I was served would have been excellent cycling fuel, if I was planning any more. As it was, I was making for the ferry, and after an ice cream at the waterfront, I boarded one of the superfast Norled boats for the almost 4 hour journey.

The journey whizzed by, and I had a pang of regret at not being out on the road, with such beautiful scenery on a lovely day.

Then I arrived in Trondheim, and I was definitely reconsidering my decision, it was cool and overcast, and not too inviting.

But I was staying at the spectacular Clarion hotel, right on the waterfront, and when I turned up at the restaurant at a few minutes to 10, and optimistically asked if they were still serving food, I was delighted to be told, ‘yes, for 5 more minutes’.

One burger then, please, and what a burger it was. All washed down by a pleasant IPA, which, for completeness, cost £10.56, for a 400 ml ‘pint’…