Tag: Lago General Carrera

Day 15: Puerto Río Tranquilo – Camping y Cabañas Cerro Color

Distance: 34.99 miles

Time: 5:54

Elevation Gain: 3,432 feet

Waking up in time to be picked up for the kayaking, at 6 AM, was a challenge, but we were soon on our way along the road out of town to a small sheltered bay, the starting off point for our paddle towards the Capillas de Mármol, marble caves.

We weren’t the only group there kayaking that morning, but our tour did provide the novelty that there were only two of us, along with our guide Gonzalo. Gonzalo was friendly and knowledgeable, and took lots of pictures of us to share later, just in case we hadn’t spent the morning photographing the trip ourselves, using the handily supplied waterproof phone cases.

It was a bright morning, and the mountains surrounding the lake were looking fine, and, as we approached, it was clear that this would be a good time to take the trip with the marble formations bathed in the early morning light.

We were educated on the names attributed to the various parts of the area, with the chapel, the cathedral, the tunnel and a large cliff behind. The various formations were spectacular, but as Desiree pointed out, the highlight was just being out on the lake in such a beautiful setting.

Having worked up an appetite during our almost 3 hour paddle, we headed for breakfast, as soon as we made it back into town, at cafe chirifo, which had been recommended as the best place in town, not something I’d try and discredit on the basis of the elegantly plated dishes of pancakes and berries, and avocado toast we were provided, they were excellent.

On packing up our bikes, I took a look at Desiree’s pannier rack as one of the bolts mounting it to the frame had evidently dropped out, and, after investigation, the one on the other side had rattled loose, too.

Needless to say, I hadn’t checked my own bike, and on jumping on to leave the site, I realised I had a completely flat back tyre, a little frustrating, but an excellent opportunity to try out my new secret weapon, a tiny motorised bike pump.

After setting off, we had already travelled these roads in the morning, so I wasn’t surprised to find a steepening collection of energy sapping climbs formed the opening part of the route.

The scenery along Lago General Carrera was outstanding, and the stunning green hue of the lake, breathtaking.

Enjoying the scenery at the top of one climb, we made a new cycling friend, Felipe from Argentina, he had initially asked me if I wanted my photo taken as he cycled past, but we soon turned the tables on him, as he was travelling alone, he’d be needing some photos taken of him.

As the day went on, I started to wonder just how big this lake was, before looking at the map and realising that it actually stretched into Argentina, so really quite big was the answer.

As the road dropped down to the lakeside at one particularly beautiful stretch, Desiree, suggested some lunch, and a swim, in the deeply-hued, but frigid looking waters. Still to be convinced, a couple of other tourists arrived and beat us to it. Maybe it wouldn’t be so bad…

After lunch the climbs continued, but eventually we reached the end of the lake and stopped for some food on a bridge, the sun now low in the sky, and Desiree commented that she wouldn’t usually ride this late. I always ride this late I sighed, apologetically, and as we trundled down a farm track, at sunset, to the initially abandoned looking, Camping y Cabañas Cerro Color, we were treated to my other long established cycle-touring habit, pitching tents in the dark.