Day 12: Danang – Thanh My

Distance: 43.96

Time: 3:47

Average Speed:

Although I’d been keen to see Hoi An, I decided that it would have to wait for a future trip. It was only 15 miles away and I couldn’t really justify such a short day. Also, if I went to Hoi An, and started the journey inland from there to the Ho Chi Minh Highway, it would be a huge day. I decided to head west from Danang to Thanh My, a day of just over 40 miles that would get me back to the Ho Chi Minh Highway in one go.

Over a leisurely breakfast, with Flo and Marie, we discussed our respective plans. They were covering the short distance to Hoi An, along the coast, and I had a relatively short day as well, so we headed for the beach before checking out. The sun was pleasantly warm, and the sea was cool and refreshing. Grabbing a few hours on the beach almost made the trials of the ‘coastal’ route seem worthwhile.

After saying our goodbyes, I set off alongside the beach for a few miles, passing some enormous new hotels. Soon I turned inland and hit some beautiful wide roads with minimal traffic. I stopped for a passion fruit milkshake, in a cafe which was elegantly perched over a small lake. Continuing on, I wove through several small villages before finding Highway 14B, the main highway west.

Shortly, as I whizzed through flat farmland, I came across another cyclist stopped at the side of the road. Pierre, from Newfoundland, Canada, but currently a teacher in China. He had just left Danang, on day 1 of a month long trip to Cambodia, and was trying to remember a route he’d been on 4 years ago, on a motorbike. He came to the conclusion that it probably wasn’t practical to head along a dirt track to a village that may not include accommodation, and was in the opposite direction to that in which he was headed, so I told him I was aiming for Thanh My, and as that was his alternative destination, we set off together.

The route was pleasant with rolling hills. Later, as we travelled along, Pierre had a moment of recognition, he was sure that he had been this way and there was worse ahead. So, when the road started to ramp up with 3 kilometres to go, I feared the worst, but the gradient was kind, and the route was shaded, so the 150m of ascent was fine, certainly nothing compared to yesterday.

Rolling down the other side of the hill, we reached the quiet backwater of Thanh My.

There seemed to be a blaring Karaoke bar across the road from the hotel, so we walked the length of the Main Street before finding that the caterwauling Karaoke singing was coming from the only half reasonable restaurant. The racket was incessant so it was impossible to make ourselves heard, but after a massive struggle to order some food, we lucked out with special fried rice and king prawns. Great success.

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