Distance: 63.61

Time: 5:31:38

Average Speed: 11.5 mph

Elevation Gain: 1,290 feet

Yesterday had been tough, in the post-match analysis, I knew I hadn’t eaten enough, some porridge, soup and an apple tart was unlikely to fully recuperate the 5,500 calories I’d been expending. I’d been caught out thinking that the pleasant amble in the sunshine would continue and when the bitterly-cold energy-sapping headwind came along, I was ill prepared. I knew that Iceland had some lengthy stretches without facilities, I would have to start carrying more food. But not food that required cooking, I don’t remember ever having the patience to whip out my stove to help me deal with a challenging last 20 miles of the day when the weather has turned bad.

It took me a long time to get going this morning. I was awake, but still recovering some energy for the day ahead. I was focussed on making improvements to my setup that would help the cycling part of each day go more smoothly. Most important in that was sorting out my bike position, I’d ridden the last 30 miles of the previous day on the handlebar drops – because the other positions were too high – so I flipped the stem so that it angled downwards and lowered the handlebars as far as they’d go, definite improvement.

I stopped by the supermarket for some supplies, then, as it was now so long since I’d had breakfast, I popped back into Grill 66 for another burger. In my defense, there wasn’t really anywhere else…

Leaving Hella around 2, I knew that I needed to get my head down, but I was comfortable with that. Up until now the cycling had felt more like an impediment to my sight-seeing, as opposed to my reason for being here. The cloud was down and visibility was poor, but the road was pan flat and I soon covered the 8 miles to Hvolsvollur. It had been my intended campsite for the previous night, so I was glad to see that it had even fewer facilities than Hella, It had been a good decision to finish when I did.

Stopping only briefly to sort my saddle position to match my handlebars, I kept pushing on, reaching Seljalandsfoss, I was tempted to pedal on past to save the short detour, but it was one of the very few sights I was actually aware of in Iceland, ‘the waterfall you can walk behind’. Already cold and wet from wearing too many layers to counter the chilling wind and moist air, I opted to change into some dry clothes, instead of creating new wet ones by running under a waterfall, but it did make a great spectacle.

Visibility was poor – as I was enveloped by cloud – but I could feel that the landscape around me was becoming more interesting, with large rock formations dotting the landscape, the backdrop had become more rugged. Mercifully the road continued unchallenged below, straight and flat and true.

Next on the tourist trail was Skogafoss waterfall, after 40 miles, and once again it was a short distance off the road but its quality looked sufficient to warrant a stop. As usual, I elicited surprised reactions from the powered vehicle travellers – because I’d shown up on a bike – and this time even more so as some of them had just seen me at the previous waterfall. I know I’m doing well when I’m ticking off tourist attractions as quickly as those driving!

Although it was now almost 8 o’clock and I still had 18 miles to go, I was determined not to repeat the previous night’s mistakes, so I opted for a proper meal at the Skogafoss hotel. Keen to avoid another burger, I ordered Vegetable Lasagna. It had run out and the other prices were eye-watering, one lamb burger please…

Leaving Skogafoss at half 8, conditions were bleak and the landscape matched, but then at 55 miles and approaching 10 o’clock, the road – which had only just reached the south coast – was turning inland and climbing over the coastal range. A hill, this would be interesting, the road had been pan flat all day.

Luckily the gradient was kind and I relished the challenge, cresting the top to find a glorious 10 percent descent down into the valley on the other side. Scanning the path of the road across the valley floor, it looked like the road forced its way upwards using a giant switchback at the far side. Surely not… But, sure enough. As I passed the 12 percent for 1 km sign, I scoped out the very steep section of road, and cursed my luck at encountering it at 10’clock at night. Then, upwards I went, and conserving as much energy as I could, I kept an eye on other road users approaching – so that I could zig-zag my way up the steep gradients.

Over the top, I was now on a high plateau, gradually climbing higher towards a col on the horizon that would lead me to a steep descent into Vik, and with mountains all around, and clear bright skies, it was then that I really began to enjoy cycling in Iceland.

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