I’d only booked my flight some 36 hours before, and here I was looking forlornly out of the window at the rain as I deliberated where to build my bike at Copenhagen Airport. The weather had been better at home. But I was here now, so I had better make the most of it, I thought, as I emptied out the contents of the battered cardboard box, now a veteran of two campaigns – having successfully made a return trip to Jordan, it was now ending its service here, having deployed me at the start of a new adventure.

It was raining lightly as I set off into town on Copenhagen’s overwhelmingly extensive network of cycle paths, I meandered through pleasant suburbs and was pleased to get Reykjavik-vibes before a striking church gave me a taste of something new.

Crossing the Langebro bridge into the city offered up lovely views of the distinctive harbour-side buildings, reminding me that the last time Copenhagen had entered my consciousness had been news reels of the awful fire at the historic Borsen building, and I wondered if that event – back in April – had somehow subconsciously led to me being here today.

I was intrigued to see what appeared to be a funfair further along the road, so carrying on along H. C. Andersens Boulevard to take a look, I soon realised that it was the famous Tivoli Gardens, and that I’d previously seen it, in a Michael Portillo Travelogue.

Across the road lay the fine Radhuspladsen square, the city hall sitting proudly between Burger King on one side, and McDonald’s on the other…

Other than booking the flight, I had managed one other piece of planning before setting off, and that was to check out campsites in the Copenhagen area, in the end deciding on Bellahoj Campsite, for the sole reason that it was big enough that you didn’t have to book…

It was 4.5 km across town, so I carried on in that direction, pleased to inadvertently receive some guidance on Danish cycle-lane etiquette from a young boy who was pedalling along in front of me. Right arm out to turn right, left hand up to stop, and to turn left, cycle across the intersection and pull over and wait in the cycle lane on the right hand side, then wait for the signal to change before continuing to the left. It was strange to be picking up riding tips from the locals – on trips like these, I’m usually the only one on a bike!

• cycle-touring