Distance: 39.55 miles

Time: 5:31

Elevation Gain: 3,530 feet

The campsite at El Blanco was a good one, with excellent facilities and a pleasant camping area with a mixture of hikers and a couple of other cyclists.

As I was clearing up my dishes at the end of the night, another cyclist, who had previously been conversing to some motorcyclists in some extremely fluent sounding-Spanish asked where I was from. She herself, was from Germany, but had been living in Peru, and before that Ecuador, and her name was Daisy, she said, when speaking to English speakers, but was actually Desiree. Even as an English speaker, I hoped I could manage that.

Desiree had just started her trip, that day from Coyhaique, and had actually cycled past me as I was readying to leave town. I was surprised to see her arrive at the campsite after me, but it transpired she’d had to return to her accommodation for her plug adapter, which she’d forgotten. She had set her sights on reaching Puerto Río Tranquilo, in the next couple of days, so it was likely that we would see each other on the road.

The next morning, I wasn’t feeling in too much of a rush, as although I knew today’s ride would reach the highest point of the whole route at over 3,500 feet, and the route profile showed it to be climbing all day, the distance was to be, only, around 40 miles, to Villa Cerro Castillo, and the forecast was for it to be a little cooler than the previous few days had been.

Leaving the campsite, at 10 to 12, I was already at 1200 feet, so some of the work had been done the day before. The road trended upwards for a while before a steep pull saw me reach the turn off, with ruta 7 continuing towards Villa Cerro Castillo, and the alternative route taking highway 245 to Balmaceda, and its airport, near the Argentinian border.

After the junction, the road continued to climb, but it was a while before the true nature of where the climb would lead revealed itself, as it began to aim squarely at a range of peaks on the horizon, first climbing gradually, before ramping up for a sustained effort towards the col.

As I was climbing up the steepest part, I had good visibility way up the road, and in amongst the road signs near the top, I could make out some shapes, that gradually it dawned on me must be stationary bicycles and their riders.

So distracted was I by trying to decipher what I was seeing, that I hadn’t thought too much about the climb at all, and as I eventually arrived alongside the German couple, Fabian and Helena, stopped at the side of the road, having their lunch, I realised that I was quite out of breath. ‘Wow, you were moving fast’, Fabian remarked. It took me a minute to respond.

Fortunately, the first of the two climbs was now, largely, done, and as I rolled up to a large sign promoting a nature reserve, at the top, I discovered Desiree’s bike leaning against it. Spotting a sign for a cafe, I made my way over to the reception building for the park, and campsite, and went inside, to find the host, her daughter, a work experience girl from London, called Lucy, and Desiree, who remarked that the soup was freshly made, and excellent. It certainly was, and the best meal of the trip so far.

After lunch, Desiree headed off, just as the German couple arrived, but they were stopping to check out walking opportunities, so I was soon underway. The road dropped down quickly, through a fine valley along a river, and it wasn’t long before I was drawn to a halt again by Desiree and a couple of cars parked up at the side of the road watching the far bank of the river fixatedly.

It was soon clear what had drawn their attention it was a Huemul, or South Andean deer, and it was grazing down by the river, before it eventually crossed over and came right past the assembled throng, which now included Fabian and Helena as well. I was surprised to see it was on its own, but now know it was an endangered species, and we were very lucky to see it.

The second climb wasn’t too bad at all, and the road climbed very gradually, before just as slowly starting to descend again, but soon Desiree and I found ourselves standing atop an exquisite set of switchbacks with the incredible mountain vista of Cerro Castillo, as its backdrop.

The road descended steeply into town and we made for El Nortino campsite, one that Desiree had seen recommended. It was a little hard to find, and full, but after Desiree exhibited her Spanish language mastery once more, the host, Felipe, found us a spot to stay.

• bikepacking
• cycle-touring